Відео

Where would you get those stone cleaning tools ?

What’s the name of the tool that you use to flatten the stone and where would you get it from ?

Thank you! Now I know how to use my sharpening stone for a good edge on my chef's knives.

I went with the santoku and after that a gyuto, but I always wanted a single bevel knife.

Im surprised they didnt reach into the double digits.

What are your top 3 performing knives

Do you form a burr on both sides? If so, how is that possible? Wouldn't the burr switch from one side to the other?

Honestly, I've tried xinzuo, shan zu and henzen knives and quality wise they're not bad at all. I also have Global and myabi knives and... Of course a myabi is a better knife but a I have to say that I prefer this Chinese knives over my global, for steel quality and design. They're really well refined and edge is very good. So I would say if you want a good knife without spending too much (but I wouldn't say they're exactly cheap knives, they can cost 100€ and more... So cheap isn't the right definition), these are a good choice.

The most common swedish steel is 12c27 i think, also found in Mora knives. Its same-ish as AEB-L and not too expensive as its used for razors a lot.

Well, I initially had no interest in owning, or having a collection of Japanese culinary knives. I have some made in Spain, Germany, and China that I'm happy with, then I came across a few KAI Shun knives that started interesting me greatly. So, had to watch this video. I agree with all you shared, but esthetics play a big part for me as well. If all of what you've mentioned here are good to go, too.

One of the other responders said it best. Knives are tools. They're not a status symbol.

I cook a lot and my good knives range $30 to $40 a copy. I also prefer carbon steel blades for longer edge retention and ease of sharpening. Yes, my good knives are CutLuxe made in China. My everyday beater knives are Henkels stainless steel blades made in Spain. I also have a few Dexter-Russell knives. Its the same with tools, I don't own any Snap-On or Matco, my tools are American made Craftsman, Husky and Harbor Freight. They work for me. I'm not trying to impress anyone in my small galley kitchen. Spending silly money on a kitchen knife is not in my wheelhouse. The same goes for watches. I have 20 dive watches in a multitude of colors. Most are Invicta automatics. They keep great time and look awesome. I'd never buy a Rolex. I'd buy a motorcycle or a sports car first. Now guns, scopes and tactical gear are another matter because my life depends on that stuff. But that's me.

How does the Epicurean boards compare?

Why wouldn't you use shave soap?😳

I don't quite get it. Why would someone not flatten only when it's dished and make it only flat and no extra? Like why does the grit roughness change that?

I just use an Atoma 140 on knives and then I polish up the blade on a ceramic rod, using very light pressure on both. Seems to work as good as anything, if not better, at a tiny fraction of the time and cost of going through a whole series of expensive water stones.

this guy does not quit rambling or trying to sell things. it's unreal. welcome to my 15 minute sharpening video. I finally stfu and start sharpening at 5 minutes in.

My ancestral line is German, therefore I buy German. Not very deep, just loyal.

More than sensible.

theres actual no way

Like you I enjoy collecting quality kitchen knives. I have way more than anyone would ever need, but you can say the same for any collector of anything. I have collections from Wustof Ikon, Henkles / Zwilling, Dalstrong, MAC and Miyabi. I have the complete set of Miyabi Birchwood knives from Kiritsuke to Petty as after I bought their Nakiri....I had to get the rest of them. Since getting into Japanese knives, I've pretty much shelved my EU ones. My favorite set overall is the Miyabi Birchwood set. They are light, precise, sharp enough to dry shave with, easy to maintain and are just gorgeous knives. The knife I use most is the Miyabi 7" Nakiri, followed by the 9" slicer for meat / fish prep. The slicer blade is frighteningly sharp. I went with a Dalstrong 8" Shogun series folded Damascus for my choice of boning knife. All my older, Wustof and Henkles / Zwilling knives pretty much just sit in a drawer now. Once you go Japanese with knives, you don't go back to EU ones. Glad to see you review one of the knives I use daily. They are very high quality production knives, and I LOVE each one they make in that outstanding series. They are expensive, but they are worth it.

actually goign to try this tutoritla with an axe charpener 800#

impressive,i though he was cutting air and missed for a moment,until i saw a red circle appear

Definitely a good alternative to whetstones. I will have to order fireclay and sandblasting material like SIC for my custom flattening stone some time.

Agree with you.

800 and 3000 Naniwa pro chocera?

Test it on paper towel, it will be a lot harder to cut then your parchment paper

This machine is so unreliable, Ive done multiple tests on it, they all came out different, even if you take very slow (as they recommend) while placing blade against the medium. Results are contradicting. Had to return

I don’t count

that tip had to be wedged in something really deep before the blade was flexed... otherwise it would have broken a much smaller chunk. It's like when bushcraft knife reviewers sink the blade into a tree stump and then pry.

I think the Damascus version is clearly the better version, and the one to go for if they were the same price. It gets sharper, holds its edge longer, it is thinner, and if the patterns cause any sort of drag, you can just get rid of them using stones.

What knife is this?

All good knives are the same sharp, u dont show something special

I learned to sharpen on secondhand arkansas stones but unfortunately they broke. I'm really considering buying a new set because the experience is so much worse (for my intuition and feel) with synthetic stones.

Need to do better job drying your knives. Sad to see how much rust you’ve got

I have watched this video at least a dozen times beginning to end. Thanks. There is so much great information here

I don't get it. I maintain my sg2 knife just with a shapton glass 6000 and a strop. If it does not cut tomatoes well anymore do this: In 1 minute per side I raise a burr, remove it with a strop and it cuts paper towel. No need for a 1000 stone if you dont wear your knifes down like a maniac and have this fast sharpening shapton glass 6000. It is not true that you cannot sharpen with a 6000 quickly! In fact the 1000 stone wears my knife down way to quickly. I would not use it if it is not absolutely neccessary because my knife is dull because it was getting abused or something. If you wear your knife down so you need the cutting speed of a 1000 at that point the knife does not cut anymore but sqeezes your food seriously. What do all the people do with their knifes that recommend a 1000? Trying to cut their kitchen wall? Splitting Wood?

I am trying to sharpen a recurved knife and I've been trying for weeks to get the damn thing sharp but I am giving up and getting a worksharp mk2. I can't get the hang of it with the goddamn wetstone, makes me wanna toss it out the window💀

I just sharpened my Shun, thanks for the tip about chipping bone, very good to know!

It does make a difference with a true scandi. It has to be absolutely flat trust me.

Jeg vil altid bruge slibestål og elsker den. En sten skal gøres våd og sviner. Når en ny æg skal laves bruger jeg vinkel sliber. Det er tydeligt at slibestål virker bedre end en slibesten, når vinklen er skabt. Men elsker alligevel din kanal🎉

Should I use this knife for home cooking?

Thank you! I just picked up Shapton pro 320, 1000 and 5000 stones for a sweet deal to learn whetstone sharpening, and I was about to drop $90 on an atoma 140 or 400. I'll save my money

Staining means food matters has been absorbed!

These boards absorb liquids. Even if the water evaporates, there is food residue that seeps into the wood particles, whether you clean the surface completely , food still permeates the surface. Secondly, the wood is wood, which is not much better than solid wood boards. Staining on the board surface equates to food particles that are not completely removed. The rubber is synthetic which is closed cell, but the wood particles are not. This product attempts to have an absorption of energy, as to limit knife edge damage. Which is good. Unfortunately, the ultimate sanitation is not very effective.

Good vid brutha, gave me some solid improvent steps to try

My knives always fail doing this test, only been able to do it with a hand. I always try to go as slow as possible into the paper, I think the quicker you do it the easier it quickly bites into the paper

In the FAQ section of the Shapton website they say about the use of sandpaper that "abrasive paper can leave a stone clogged, with the result that the blade slips and it is impossible to sharpen it". Is it true?

I have a question, which way I need to apply pressure on the knife? when pushing or pulling? thanks !